KINGSMERE CRAFTS

HAND-CRAFTED LEATHER GOODS

Moulded gussets

The advantage of this type of gusset is that it lies flat in the closed position and expands fully when opened, and there are two ways of making them, namely the "string" and the "tin".

The shape to which a moulded gusset can be fixed depends on the width of the gusset required, and that in turn on the size of the article. For a purse the normal width would be about 1" to 1½". Dampen the leather for the gusset on the flesh side and leave to mellow for a time (about five minutes).

Using the string method the mellowed leather is folded grain to grain along its length and a loop of string fixed to a support, and the leather then sits with its fold along it. Pull with the first finger and thumb of both hands, stretching the outer edge, while the inner is pulled by the string.

For the tin method cut a piece of zinc a good 2" longer on all sides than the front of the purse with a "U"-shaped piece cut out, the size of the fold of the gusset. The dampened and folded gusset is bent round the inner shape of the tin, the outer edge being pulled along the base and then the corners. Pleats should be smoothed with a folder.

You can repeat gussets with some degree of accuracy using the tin method, which is impossible with the string. However, with both these methods, size and length will have to be trimmed to fit the shape of the purse front.

Moulding is a very successful technique for using up expensive scraps of sole leather. Cut to size and do any decorative work before starting to mould it. Soaking for a sufficient length of time in warm water it will become soft enough to mould into various shapes. Always use the grain side out. Strips can be moulded round something like a jam jar and taped in place over a piece of polythene and allowed to dry naturally. An easy way to make bangles, but do be careful when handling wet leather -- you can easily bruise it, and even when it dries, marks will still be visible.

Contents Links 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110