 |
|
|
|
|
KINGSMERE CRAFTS
HAND-CRAFTED LEATHER GOODS
Making a pair of "Viking" ankle boots - continued
Cutting out the patternThis is also known as "clicking"
Lay your leather out onto a table top and trace the pattern onto it. Remember that ink marks can't be removed except by cutting them off, so marking should be done with a pencil, or a scratching awl. This was probably the purpose of the small spur on the back of the medieval shoemaker's knives.|
|
|
 |
To save leather, lay the pattern against the edges of the leather, with the pieces as close together as possible. Be sure to check the leather under the pattern for cuts, thin spots, or holes before tracing. When the design calls for a left and right pattern, be certain to turn the pattern over after tracing it on the leather (unless the right and left foot are grossly different in which case you definitely need to make separate patterns). For cutting out the leather uppers below, the feet were almost identical so no alteration to the pattern was required, just remember to turn the pattern over. Speaking from experience, I can't stress that enough, it's too late to remember when you've started to cut!
|
|
|
 |
 |
Draw the knife point by moving the heel of your hand. Keep your wrist stiff. If you keep the heel of your hand on the leather as you cut, it will help you keep the leather pinned to the work surface. Keep the blade straight as you pull the knife. If the angle of your cutting becomes uncomfortable, stop and pivot the leather, not your wrist. If you have to force the knife, it's not sharp enough. Strop it a few times to sharpen it, otherwise you risk losing control of the cut. Thick leathers, such as sole leather, may require two or more passes with the blade, and even soaking the leather before cutting. There is some debate regarding cutting leather on a bias or against the grain, or even using flank or belly leather.
|
|
|
Note that the flap which crosses over the top of the foot in front of the ankle is strengthened by stitching an identically shaped
piece on to its inner side, in addition to the collar which is used to strengthen that
part of the upper around the ankle. In the illustration above this flap has not been fastened. A kidney-bean shaped toggle is made by rolling up a length of leather, and then
slipping the tail of the leather back through the slot in the extended flap of the collar. The bindings for the trousers are optional and
self explanatory, so try not to get into any swordfights.
Contents
Links
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
|
|
|
|
|
|
